Italy part 1: under the Tuscan rain clouds
May 31st, 2010
After two weeks in cold, grey London, the glorious Tuscan sunshine that welcomed me on arrival at Pisa airport felt like heaven. Shedding my scarf and jacket and for the first time in forever (OK, maybe two weeks) feeling the fresh air against bare skin, I was given a false sense of security that my whole stay in Italy would be like this, spent swilling wine in the glorious sunshine. However, as the other travellers I met later had warned me, the sun didn’t stick around for long.
The information desk staff at the Pisa airport were less than helpful (“Here’s a bus ticket, if you need a map, go over there”) and almost to spite them I just jumped on a city bus having no idea where it would take me. But the scenery was nice, so I stayed on, until I found myself somewhere out of town, and I had to walk back to catch another bus back where I came from. Then I had some trouble finding the hostel I wanted to stay at and there was some to-ing and fro-ing until I finally found what I was looking for.
No wonder I missed it – all that marked the entrance was a pair of monastery-style heavy steel doors with round knockers on them. It looked like some kind of medieval castle or tomb. No signs, just a buzzer on the side wall. But my search certainly proved worthwhile. For 16 euros I got to to sleep in a beautiful, huge room with giant original 300-year-old stained-glass windows overlooking the Corso Italia, a charming little laneway street of cafes and shops. But my favourite thing about the Walking Street Hostel was the staff. The man at reception, Marco, was an entertaining Italian and within minutes of being there I had met his pet ferret and a few hours later I was accompanying him to the supermercato buying all sorts of goodies for the feast he was going to cook us tonight. Me, a fellow Aussie, an American and two Singaporeans sat around the table and enjoyed our homecooked feast of pasta, pane and vino as if we were a family sitting down to dinner. I don’t know any other place in the world that you can get service like that.
That night we wandered about the town and found ourselves at the tower, that looked enchantingly beautiful and eerie in the pale blue light.
The next day Megan arrived via train from France. We were unable to contact each other by phone because neither of them were working but I went down to the stazione to see if I could find her, lo and behold, we bumped right into each other. We to0k our cheesy photos at the tower and decided 15 euros was a bit steep (excuse the pun) for the climb up it, so we enjoyed some pasta for lunch (just for something different) and got hassled by an old bearded busker who seemed intent on following us back to Melbourne.
After another feast of pasta from the hostel staff, that night a storm hit Pisa so hard I thought our hostel was going to split in half. It felt like the thunder was rumbling right underneath us. It poured down all night – I half expected the town to be flooded when I woke up. With umbrella in tow (the first time I have used my travel umbrella the whole trip, can you believe it?), we jumped on a train to Florence.
Florence was enchantingly beautiful. We saw the Santa Maria Del Fiore cathedral, gazed at the beautiful mosaic gold ceiling of the baptistery, marvelled at the sculptures at Piazza Della Signoria, got my hand grabbed from behind by a mime who made me scream in front of everyone in the piazza, saw Boticelli’s Birth of Venus along with a million other mythological and religious paintings at Uffizi gallery, walked to Ponte Vecchio … then I lost Megan and there were a few hours there during which I didn’t know where she was and started to worry and dropped my phone and broke it until she rocked up at the hostel door.
We went to our favourite cafe around the corner from the hostel (we’d also been there for lunch) where the food and wine was cheap, the staff friendly and atmosphere lively. I questioned the owner about a tip. “Tip? You come back tomorrow – that’s our tip,” he said.
On Saturday we queued up for about 40 minutes in the rain to see the Statue of David at the Galleria Dell’Accademia. I think both Megan and I fell in love with David a little bit. He really is something to behold. Of course there are other great things to see in the gallery, especially the room of 15th century sculptures (though there was one curious one – a “boot”, consisting of two bits of wood, roughly painted; we wondered if it was there as a joke) but really, it was all about David.
We dragged our cold wet feet to Piazzale Michelangelo which bestowed stunning views over Florence: even in the rain and drizzle, the city was misty and beautiful.
Dinner that night was an ordeal. We headed out at 8.30-9pm (this is the time Italians eat, restaurants don’t generally open until after
in search of a place called Mario’s. We walked and walked, foolishly without a map, and couldn’t find it until we stumbled upon a place called Trattoria Marione which was jam-packed with people and had massive crowds queuing out the front. Absolutely famished, we gave up after a 40-minute wait in the rain, and walked and walked some more, when I had a very confronting run-in with a drunk Italian man. As Megan and I were passing him and his friend, he called out, “Ragazza Americana!” (assuming I was an American girl) and he grabbed me very abruptly around the waist. My first thought was the offended “I’m not American”, and I struggled to get away from him but then I realised that this guy wasn’t going to let me go and his hands were wandering to places I didn’t want them to go. I’d say he held onto me for a good seven to eight seconds and by this stage Megan was getting very agitated. After fearing I was about get kidnapped we finally got rid of the guy and from then on as I walked down the narrow streets, I eyed each passer-by with distrust.
So now I was starving and pissed off, and anyone who knows me knows this is not a good combination. We ended up dining at a restaurant that was way too expensive for what it was because we were so desperate for nourishment.
Our night then took another turn when we tried to make our way to a nightclub to meet a fellow backpacker we’d first met in Pisa. On the way to this bar, called Twice, we were joined by a gelati vendor and his friend, and upon arrival we found the place was rather seedy and played pretty crappy music. Its only value was people watching. A few guys we met were heading to Babylon, so we went along, and this is where the fun really started. The sauna-temperature club was packed wall to wall, people were smoking inside, the dancefloor was madness, there were three to four DJs in costume being delivered bundles of vodka bottles over the crowd’s heads, joined by a bunch of men dancing in their underwear and some pretty flamboyant man-on-man PDA. Bottles of spirits were being poured into girls’ mouths and every 10 minutes or so the bar staff or DJs would release the contents of a bottle of champagne onto an unrelenting crowd. Megan and I just looked at each other, wondering what we had just walked into. Additionally the bar staff were so wasted that we didn’t have to pay for drinks. A side of Florence I never expected to see.
Sunday was our ultimate disaster day (warning: some venting ahead). Day 3 in Italia and my UK credit card still wasn’t working. I would like to use all sorts of colourful language to express how much I HATE banks, especially Barclays, but I won’t, because I’m sure everyone’s heard it before. Anyway, because this bank is run by a bunch of half-wits, I am required to register online each country I am travelling to and the arrival and departure dates for each one, to prevent fraud. To hell with fraud. Because of course, silly old me assumed my internationally-recognised VISA card would work anywhere and I ended up in a foreign country with no cash and when I tried to call my bank to fix this, I used up the whole credit of my international calling card to sit on hold for 45 minutes because not a single Barclays customer service operator seemed to be working that day. Thank God for my sister, otherwise I would have been totally screwed. She was able to spot me but there was still 45 minutes of my life I wanted back and a few extra wrinkles I could’ve done without. Thanks Barclays. Oh and my Australian bank wasn’t much better; I had waited two and a half weeks in London for my replacement debit card that never came. Anyway, during this stressful time I further stuffed my phone by accidentally stepping on the screen, so now I can’t read texts properly. Wow, I rock.
/vent over
So we left Florence much later than planned, waited for a train to Siena, and then we realised we’d forgotten to validate our tickets, and when the train inspector pulled us up about this, he demanded we pay 40 euros each in fines. We argued with him for a little while and almost got kicked off the train, but ended up paying him 5 euros each which would’ve gone straight to his pocket.
Siena was so worth it – pure Tuscany. It was one of the only Italian towns spared from bombing in World War II, so it was this untouched, dreamy Medieval town that makes you feel as if you have stepped inside an oil painting or on a movie set.
It wasn’t so tranquil when we first arrived though. When we hopped off the bus we saw crowds and crowds of people hanging off every available section of fence between the buildings, all watching something intently. We went over for a peek and discovered it was a football (soccer) match in the centre of town. Milan v Siena. “Do you know if one of the teams scored a goal just before?” a group of tourists asked us. I said we didn’t know, but I don’t know how these guys could’ve been confused. We only witnessed it once: but when a goal was scored, you knew about it. Grown men were leaping at each other, kissing each other, almost crying, people were screaming, things were thrown in the air – even flares were being let off – and Megan and I just watched in amazement as chaos erupted around us. In stark contrast, when we wandered into town, Siena was completely deadly still because everyone was at the match. We then wandered into the piazza and saw the absolutely breathtaking Duomo but missed visiting hours by a few minutes, which we really regretted because the photos of the interior looked simply stunning. We shook off a strange man that accompanied us for a short walk around town who claimed to be a prince, and made it back to the piazza for dinner, until it started t0 fill up with football hooligans (the match was obviously over). We jumped on a train out of there – same train, yet headed for very different destinies. Megan was heading to Chiusi in the Umbrian countryside to volunteer on a farm for two weeks, and I was going to Rome, to see basilicas, temples and museums.


